The show was directed by Rachid Ouramdane of the Théâtre National de Chaillot, featuring a collective of acrobats, Compagnie XY. There was no safety net above the hard stone floor.

Performers were tossed through the air like missiles, to be caught by dancers across the courtyard. In pastel colored, loosely-fitting pleated garments the performers then climbed down ladders, before performing death-defying leaps, falls and tumbles. In eye-popping hues inspired by flowers and vases, models mingled with performers inside the newly renovated La Poste du Louvre for this unusual and sensitive showcase of fashion designs through dance.įrom a hidden ledge high above the courtyard runway, a dancing troupe suddenly stood up mid-show to gasps from the audience.

Louis Vuitton's design studio just bucked the trend of too many cooks spoiling the broth.ĭEATH-DEFYING FASHION AT HOMME PLISSE ISSEY MIYAKEīlurring the line between fashion and performance, the Japanese house of Issey Miyake for Homme Plisse used a troupe of acrobats who contorted, danced and seemingly courted death for a spectacular Paris Fashion Week men’s show. Its very silhouette evoked the house monogram. One case in point was the waist on a black double-breasted jacket that had been pulled in to resemble a V on its side. The display's strength was owed to its many feats of design. They toed a careful line between the playful styles associated with the house since 2018 and the fine luxury tailoring seen during the tenure of predecessor Kim Jones. Such moments in this collection seemed even to surpass Abloh’s own runway designs. This was the case at Thursday’s display: From shirt hems quirkily cut in zigzag patterns, to 3-D paper plane appliques on suits and otherworldly, elongated silhouettes.Ī finely tailored jacket with trompe l’oeil prints provided one of the many touches of old-school luxury. It’s a remarkable feat for a studio to emulate a former designer’s styles - with originality. Stars such as Omar Sy, Jessica Biel, Justin Timberlake, Joel Edgerton and Naomi Campbell further attested to the pull of his legacy. This rare continuation at Vuitton of a former designer's aesthetic is a strong sign of the level of influence the man drew.

On Thursday, it was instead a collection conceived entirely by the Vuitton studio in his spirit. This spring-summer show was the first presented since Abloh’s death that he had not designed (a previous posthumous one was based on his own creations). The yellow road set that snaked around the Louvre's oldest courtyard recalled the spirit of the “Wizard of Oz” and the childhood obsessions common in Abloh’s designs - as did a colorfully-dressed marching band and dancing troupe, including several Florida A&M University band members, that appeared noisily at the show's beginning and end. How many miles away?” went the live rap by Lamar at the stiflingly hot Vuitton show. Here are some highlights of Thursday’s spring-summer 2023 shows in Paris. A Black marching band gave a rousing performance on a surreal yellow brick road installation inside the Louvre, while rapper Kendrick Lamar performed a live ode to the American fashion star who was Vuitton’s menswear designer from 2018 until his death. PARIS (AP) - He may have died last November, but Virgil Abloh lived on at Paris Fashion Week Thursday in a high-energy runway spectacular for Louis Vuitton menswear.

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